Colour: Opaque black core, dark red rim.

Nose: An aromatic assault / surge / eruption of soy, hoisin, balsamic reduction… coiled around a core of kirsch and fresh raspberry. This propulsion is crammed with tell-tale barrel ferment, V.A. and formic Grange markers – all in balance, all respectful of fruit and oak. And yet, so ‘classy’ – a brightness, a sheen, a gloss, a raciness – belying both age and upbringing (élevage).

Palate: Formidable. No gaps, a densely-packed structural continuum. Not huge, not massive, yet taut, muscular, feisty. A black palimpsest – black fruits, black liquorice, black pudding, black fig, black cardamom…. Granitic chewy tannins linger and coat; oak all but fully concealed, submerged beneath a tannin/oak/acid/flavour tsunami. Fruits? Where to start in this entanglement? Time please.